Easter wanderings

(the photos on this are a bit scrambled, but at least I’ve been able to extract some finally from my camera!) Park behind Hero’s square And… at long last, here I am! Class is back to normal in Cracow after a wonderful few days abroad (abroad from being abroad?); and I have much to tell–these…

Quick update

The past week has been full–and more thorough narrations shall follow. But, I am alive and well–after a week of oral exams, last minute invitations to Passover Seders in Jewish Cracow (fabulous!), last minute packing adventures and homeworking, complete failures at laundrying (me and Polish washers should learn to get along!); long bus rides through…

Football and the historical experience

Several months ago, my undergraduate history department started a blog. One of the more recent posts, by a English-American historian lyrically captures much of my own experience as a historian in East Central Europe. Prof. Van Vugt writes how frequently, when his hosts during a research trip to Yorskhire, England, discovered he was not on holiday,…

Campo dei Fiori

Tuesday: midterm exams are coming in full swing. We had our exam in listening and vocabulary today; tomorrow is grammar, reading, and writing; speaking on Thursday. It’s been a full few days: after a busy Friday (the soccer game), Saturday brought a picnic in the park by our dorm (apparently I’m not the only one…

Stadion Cracovia

Last evening (Friday), several of my classmates from the Uni convinced me to join them at a match at the Cracovia football (i,e soccer) stadium. Cracow has two football teams–Cracovia and Wisła (the Polish name for the the river Vistula which flows through Cracow); the rivalry between the two teams is quite intense, despite the…

What I like about living in Cracow

1) When someone Polish asks me for directions, and I can successfully respond, in Polish. And they understand. 2) Quiet morning walks through Wawel Castle, at 7h30, before tourist Cracow awakes. And the fact that the castle is right across the street from my classroom window. 3) Walking everywhere, because. And in and out of…

Vespers

Last night, I joined that monks at the Dominican Church and Monastery (klasztor!) for Gregorian Vespers … ul. Dominikańska (Dominican St.). A gorgeous service, in one of my favorite churches in the city–and all in Latin! Now I know the word for Vespers: “nieszpory.” This has best be useful. Somehow, the service reminded me of Adam…

Cracow Smog

I’d heard quite a bit during my Polish studies about Cracow’s dangerous pollution levels; during my two previous visits here over the summers, I never noticed anything that seemed necessarily out of the ordinary. Much of the problem, it seems, is from coal burning–much of Poland still uses coal for heating; so during the summer–when the…

Saturday adventures

This past Saturday was adventure day. Friday afternoon, I decided to take an early morning bus to Wrocław (the old German city Breslau, a supposedly–yes, supposedly, I still haven’t seen it–stunning city several hours west of Cracow). I arrived at the bus station at 6:00, only to find the bus I’d hoped to take was…